My wife and I have been planning to visit Japan for a long time. It is a convenient two-hour flight for our friends living in Shanghai, so we often hear stories of their weekend getaways to Tokyo or Osaka. For us, with family spread across continents and a yearly regrouping tradition, time is precious. We usually have little room for spontaneous exploration.
Our plan in 2016 was interrupted by the arrival of our newborn son. We postponed the trip until we finally decided to leave the little one with his grandparents in Shanghai for a week. The grand plan: fly to Japan for the first time, sans stroller, sans sleepless nights.
Raised in the 80s and 90s, heavily influenced by Japanese animation and games, we thought we knew what to expect. With a little research and recommendations from friends, we mapped out a route starting in Osaka, exploring the surrounding nature, and ending with a day at Universal Studios.
Kansai International Airport
Upon arriving at Kansai Airport, before we even reached immigration, the Nintendo family was there to greet us. Mario and Luigi waved from the walls. In most international airports, the halls are plastered with advertisements for global banks or luxury watches. Japan gave us something different: a cheerful, nostalgic welcome. It felt less like arriving in a foreign country and more like stepping into a childhood memory.
As we took the train to our hotel, the immersion deepened. Anime illustrations were everywhere—on safety signs, train advertisements, even municipal advisories. It wasn’t just decoration; it was part of the cultural fabric.
The Symphony of the Rails
Over five days, we spent plenty of time in train stations. Apart from the efficiency and cleanliness, we noticed something unique: the soundscape. Every station had its own melody and an artificial bird song.
This “eki-melody” (train melody) was introduced in 1971 by Keihan Electric Railway. According to Wikipedia:
Originally, the melodies used on Japan’s railways sounded more like alarms. However, since the 1990s more attention has been paid to creating tunes which fulfil several criteria: clearly marking a train’s arrival and departure, encouraging timely but unhurried boarding and disembarking, making passengers feel calm and relaxed…
The bird whistles we heard were not just for atmosphere. They serve a vital function, guiding visually impaired passengers to the exits. It was a subtle, beautiful example of inclusive design—functionality wrapped in nature.
Osaka: A Feast for the Senses
We travel to eat. Once checked in, we immediately hunted for local barbecue. Following a recommendation, we visited Itamae-yakiniku Itto Higashishinsaibashi (板前烧肉一斗). Over the week, we noticed that high-quality beef barbecue is a staple here; you can spot a premium joint every few hundred meters.
After dinner, we walked off the calories exploring Osaka’s nightlife.
The tourist areas were exactly as expected: busy, loud, and filled with the endless aroma of street food. On our second night, we bumped into a surreal scene: a group of people dressed as Mario Kart characters driving go-karts down the main street. This wasn’t a parade; it was a tour run by Street Kart Osaka. It looked like pure joy, and we immediately added it to the “next time” list.
Osaka is famous for crab. The popular spots like Kani Dōraku (蟹道乐) had three-hour queues or were sold out. We took a chance and searched for alternatives, landing at かに道楽網元本館. It was a stroke of luck. We were ushered into a private room without a reservation.
We expected a standard meal. We got a cultural experience.
Everything was meticulous. Even the chopsticks bore the signature of the Kani Dōraku group. It turns out this location serves as their premium brand, a hidden gem away from the tourist crush.
Nara: The Deer City
Nara is magical. The JR Nara Line takes about 80 minutes from Osaka, transporting you to a different world. I have seen deer in London’s Richmond Park from a distance, but this was different. Here, the deer and humans coexist with a strange, mutual respect.
As we approached the Todai-ji Temple, we bought some “deer crackers” (shika-senbei). A word of warning: these are wild animals. They know you have food. The younger ones can be aggressive, nipping at bags to get to the treats.
But the older, experienced deer? They have manners. The local guide taught us the trick: hold the cracker over your head, and the deer bows. Put the cracker behind your back, and it bows again. It is a polite transaction between species.
For lunch, we visited Edogawa Naramachi (江户川). Following tradition, we removed our shoes and changed into Japanese slippers. We ordered Unadon (Unagi Donburi)—grilled eel over rice. Simple, perfect, and deeply satisfying.
Kyoto: Where Nature Meets The City
We only had one day in Kyoto, so we prioritized Inariyama. (Admittedly, one reason was to visit the famous % Arabica coffee shop at the bottom).
We arrived at the Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine (伏見稲荷大社) early. This is the head shrine of Inari, the god of rice.
The word Inari implies “a sack of rice.” In a culture built on agriculture, this shrine is the heartbeat of prosperity.
The shrine is guarded by statues of foxes, the messengers of Inari. In local folklore, a fox’s cry sounds like “kom-kom”—similar to the Japanese word for packing rice. We bought fortune messages at a local shop; for both my wife and I, they were eerily accurate.
If you have time, the hike up Inariyama is stunning. We took the shorter route due to time constraints, but even the brief walk was refreshing. We noticed how cleaner the streets were here, despite the lack of public trash cans. You are expected to carry your trash to the station. It is a system built on collective responsibility.
We spotted handmade bird nests outside local shops—a small gesture of welcome to nature’s smallest visitors.
Finally, we sat at % Arabica, watching the sunset. Listening to the waterfall next to the shop, sipping coffee, I was struck by how seamless it all felt. The city didn’t conquer nature here; it blended with it.
Universal Studios Japan: The Joy of Service
After four days of exploration, we decided to turn our brains off and ride some rollercoasters. We expected a standard theme park experience. We were wrong.
The employees at USJ were operating on a different level of engagement. Their excitement felt genuine. We saw cast members acting out scenes even when they thought no one was watching. We have been to theme parks all over the world, but this energy was unique.
Despite the language barrier, we felt completely welcome. The Flying Dinosaur and Hollywood Dream rides are absolute must-dos.
Afterthought
I am writing this eight months after our trip, yet the memories are vivid. Four days was far too short to understand Japan, but it was enough to appreciate the philosophy that permeates the culture.
There is a craftsmanship mindset embedded in everything—from the architecture to the cuisine to the way a train station plays bird songs for the blind. It is a culture that pays attention to the details.
Will we visit again? Absolutely. But next time, the little one is coming with us.
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